Recent EGULLET forum response

January 15th, 2009

The same holds for Hazelnut Kitchen in Trumansburg, NY. Link to Hazelnut Kitchen website
It was a gorgeous spring evening, so my dining partner and I made an impromptu run up from Ithaca to arrive about an hour before closing. (Called to make sure they could accommodate us.....) It's the kind of place where you can relax as soon as you enter- wide smile from the hostess, lace curtains, checkerboard linoleum floor, open door to let in the fresh air and ceiling fans spinning to disperse the breeze and conversation. It was a quiet late Thursday service, only 2 other small parties there, but I wonder how loud the small space would be if it was fully packed (even when the tables are well-spaced).

We were seated at a booth with a plum view of the open kitchen. I'm always fascinated by the coordination of a crew in a small space. Our server was absolutely lovely and was attentive without overwhelming us.

The cloth napkins have homey, assorted prints on them and match unfussily with the mixed service pieces. To start, we were presented with a small basket of good-quality bread (assorted brown bread, rolls, white bread...) with a ramekin of nicely softened chive butter. It was fun watching our entrees fired- companion had a duck breast special (he requested it medium- with blackberry jus, a cold pea flan and potatoes roasted in duck fat.) I had the hanger steak (medium-rare) with homemade frites and malt vinegar aioli. The steak was easily 10 oz- tender, intensely beefy and perfectly crusty and pink all at once, perched on top of a huge pile of deeply browned (but not burnt!) planks with an honest potato flavor. The aioli was ( I suspect) homemade- faint golden hue and rich mouthfeel- and lightly garlicky. I ate about half of my substantial plate, yet the server wanted to make sure that nothing was wrong when I wanted the leftovers wrapped up.

It was also nice to see the staff sitting at the bar area at the end of the night, eating together and amicably chatting. Not to sound like a dope, but I feel like the charm of the place is really supported by a dedicated, well-coordinated staff who enjoy and take pride in what they do.

Great execution with quality ingredients, fantastic service and a reasonable price tag (entrees in the upper teens to mid-twenties). Amen. Already looking forward to my next visit there.

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